One of the best early mornings so far awaited us today. See, whilst we were up at the crack of dawn, it meant we get to enjoy showers whilst watching the sunrise. Seems like a fair reward for an early start. One of the features that this campsite that attracted us was the views out to sea from the showers, so it was super to make the most of it!
One fed (more porridge) and packed up, it was only a short drive down the road to Abel Tasman Kayaks. See I had convinced Laura that we should spend the next two days kayaking and camping out in Abel Tasman National Park (well at first I had suggested a three day trip!). The sun was shining, the sea was sparkling and I was rather excited!
Having loaded our gear into the large two seater sea kayak, including tent, sleeping bags and cookers, and after a safety briefing of not going too close to seals or too far out to sea, we loaded our mighty craft onto the trailer for a short drive down to the beach. There were about 10 of us being launched at the same time, although Laura and I were the only ones doing a two day paddle. Once unloaded, Laura and I were the first onto the sea, bobbing up and down on the waves. One final check from our instructor that we knew what we were doing and we were off, heading north up into the national park.
It was brilliant to be kayaking again, enjoying wonderful scenery and sunny weather. This was the first time that Laura and I had been canoeing together.
As we skirted the coast, the features of Abel Tasman National Park became clearer; the lush vegetation, the coves and beaches and the rise and fall of valleys. A number of islands are dotted off the coast as you move northwards and so we headed out to visit one of them. Our map indicated that we may get to see seals on the north-eastern side of one of the islands. So off we headed bobbing along over the waves.
Arriving in the vicinity relieved the sense of nervousness at being alone on the open sea, and off around the island we headed. At first, we thought we were out of luck and there were no seals to be seen. But then, a rock moved! But not a rock, nope we had found a seal! As ungainly as they may look, there was a certain style to how they move on land, going up and down the boulders that littered the island’s coastline.
If spotting them on land was tricky, trying to keep my eyes on a seal in the water was even more difficult. A dark grey head emerging from the green grey waters is not the easiest thing to spot! However, after giving us the slip a couple of times we soon got the hang of guessing where the seal might pop up, and so we were able to follow him as he led us around to the western side of the island. Once he felt he had taken us far enough, and without so much as a wave, our blubbery guide turned tail and vanished.
Despite our onwards route being north, we decided we would paddle right around the island (it really wasn’t very big). On the south side of the island, we found a small beach and as we had being going for an hour and a half, and as the boat’s seats weren’t the comfiest, we opted to head to shore and stretch our legs. And just like that, we were alone on our own island!
Refuelled, on the best ginger biscuits I have ever had, and refreshed, we set off back to sea. Having completed our circumnavigation of our first island, we headed north once again up to the next island. This next island was considerably larger than the first (known as Adele Island) and so we figured it was perhaps best if we stayed between it and the shore. Heading along the island’s coastline, the views were fantastic. The rocky wall of the island topped by trees seemingly standing guard and looking out at us passersby, set amongst the tranquillity of nature as we bobbed along, was simply impressive.
As we paddled alongside the island, we were keeping our fingers crossed that there were more seals chilling out on a beach at the north of the island, and as luck would have it we weren’t to be disappointed. Indeed, there were more than a few taking advantage of the lovely weather to sun themselves! We got to see large ones, small ones, ones with whiskers, swimming ones and bathing ones. It was great to see them enjoying nature.
Despite being content boobing up and down on the sea watching seals, time was slipping by and we had to press on and head back to shore to find our campsite for the night. Following yet another seal, we headed back across the northern coast of the island before bidding the seals goodbye and striking out for shore. The sea had got a little bumpier, but we were now running with the wind and so enjoyed an easy paddle. Once again, we were spoilt by brilliant views of the Abel Tasman coastline as we drew ever nearer. This truly is a magical place.
On the recommendation of the rental company, we were heading for Te Pukatea Campsite; a campsite we were promised would be rather special and allow us to camp at the top of the beach with views out over the sea. Given how perfect it sounded, we were determined to make it.
Making our way along the coastline, and at the risk of seemingly praising the scenery too much, was lovely. We were enjoying blue skies, warm weather and views that never grow old. It didn’t take us too long until we were turning in Te Pukatea Bay. First impressions were that the recommendation was spot on. The sheltered bay enjoys a large sandy beach, backed by forest and near enough deserted.
With the sand crunching under the hull, we made landfall and stepped out into the clear waters. Dragging our boat up the sand – pretty hard going when laden with kit – took us to the campsite. As promised, it quie literally was at the top of the beach (although on an earthern base rather than the sand). There was only one other tent present in the campsite, meaning we had multiple options for where we wanted to pitch our tent. We chose a pitch that had unobstructed views out over the beach and out to sea, and got cracking with putting the tent up with the door facing seawards.
It was whilst pitching out tent that we became aware of a sharp billed neighbour – a bird that took great interest in our belongings and refused to leave us alone despite our attempts to scare him off! By the time we had set up camp, unrolled our rolls mats and sorted our sleeping bags, our stomachs were complaining that they hadn’t had a decent meal since breakfast. It seemed only fitting to cook dinner sitting on the beach. Equipped with stoves and sitting on luggage sacks provided with the kayaks, we made ourselves comfy on the sand, still marvelling at the beauty of the location.
Eating dinner sitting on the beach was pretty idyllic and I think Laura was more than happy that she had agreed to two days of kayaking with me. The beach faced east, meaning the sunset was hidden behind the rest of the national park, but as darkness began to descend we abandoned the beach, washed our pans and set about getting ready for bed. Heading back to our tent, we paused briefly to chat to our fellow kayakers and whilst doing so the moon rose on the horizon, seemingly appearing out of the sea. It was fantastic! I may have gotten a little overexcited at its sudden appearance, but all four of us stood and watched as it climbed into the sky. There are no lights at the campsite, meaning we were illuminated by the dying light of the day and by the light of the moon.
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Upon reaching the headland, I think it is fair to say that our expectations were vastly exceeded by the sight of the moon hanging in the sky and illuminating the surface of the sea. It was truly fantastic. There we were, just the two of us, half way around the world standing watching the moon ascend in one of the most beautiful natural environments I have ever visited. Moments don’t get much more special.
I suspect we could have stayed there on the headland for a couple of hours without getting bored of that view. However, a day of kayaking had taken its toll and so we headed back through the now very dark woodland down to our tent. It seemed a shame to zip the door closed on our tent and shut out the moonlit sea, but I didn’t fancy waking up face to face with our sharp billed neighbour in the morning. Laying there, huddled down in our sleeping bags, was not the comfiest of experiences. Yet listening to the waves gently breaking on the beach mere metres from our tent more than made up for any discomfort. And it turns out that drybacks stuffed with spare clothes make for passable pillows (the one thing we had forgotten!). Now we just had to wait for daybreak!
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